Beggen, where the capital runs down to the Alzette

Beggen is where the capital runs out to the north. The tourist office calls it the city’s northernmost district, and the city adds another record, the lowest point, 232 metres on Rue de Bastogne. The Alzette flows through from north to south, with wooded slopes and footpaths rising on either side.

From seven households to a city district

There were seven households in Beggen in 1611, five inhabited houses in 1657 and about 150 people by 1851, according to the tourist office. It was part of the municipality of Eich, and in 1920 it joined the capital following a referendum. Today it has 3,954 residents across 170.91 hectares and still feels more valley than city.

The church was extended in 1966 and carries a green neon cross, the tourist office notes.

What happened to the Château de Beggen?

Its story reads like a novel to me. The site was first a paper mill, then a villa that burned down in 1894. On it the architect Wynand Janssens built a château with an orangery for Émile Metz and Edmée Metz-Tesch. The Mayrisch and Barbanson families passed through, and during the war it was occupied first by the German army and then by the Americans.

From 1950 to 1956 it was the Hôtel des Forges, and in 1973 it became the Soviet embassy, bought for 8.5 million francs. It carries Beggen’s name, but the tourist office places it on the boundary with Dommeldange. As an embassy it’s one to admire from the pavement and enjoy for the story.

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Footpaths above the valley

What I like most about Beggen is that you can reach open country without a car. The city points to the Eecherfeld and Mont Dommeldange paths, which climb the slopes and show you the Alzette valley from above. If you enjoy walking, it’s a very different view of the capital, no ramparts or casemates in sight. For longer routes, see cycling in Luxembourg, as the Alzette cycle path towards Ettelbruck starts in neighbouring Dommeldange.

Is Beggen worth the trip?

On a single day in the capital, no. With three days and an urge to walk beyond the old town, yes, because it’s the one district where you can stand at the city’s lowest point and then walk up to its highest, on the Dommeldange plateau. Bring comfortable shoes and take your time.

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Local football

The Henri-Dunant stadium, opened in 1981, is home to FC Avenir Beggen and holds 4,830 spectators. Bus 3 serves it.

Getting there

City buses climb up from the centre and, like all free public transport in Luxembourg, cost nothing. I’d pair Beggen with Eich in the same valley and with Dommeldange for a morning’s walk around the north of the city.

So you do not lose the morning at the ticket office, browse tickets and tours in Luxembourg on GetYourGuide.

If you would rather go at your own pace, see the car hire deals in Luxembourg: the earlier you book, the more cars are left to choose from.

Before you fix your dates, compare tickets to Luxembourg: the same journey can cost very different amounts from one day to the next.