Sant Corneli i Sant Cebrià, the church in Ordino's old quarter

In Ordino the church isn’t the biggest draw, but it’s the one that explains the village. Sant Corneli i Sant Cebrià stands in the old quarter beside the square, and inside it brings together two things that made Ordino wealthy, faith and iron. To me it’s the perfect stop before or after Casa d’Areny-Plandolit.

Medieval outside, Baroque within

The church is medieval in origin, but what you see today comes from remodelling in the 17th and 19th centuries. Inside are five Baroque altarpieces, carved in the 17th and 18th centuries and dedicated to the patron saints, Cornelius and Cyprian.

The piece I’d seek out is another. It’s a Romanesque Mother of God in polychrome wood, more than nine centuries old, just 44 centimetres tall and among the smallest in the country. For the rest of Andorra’s Romanesque, see the Romanesque churches of Andorra.

Grilles from Ordino’s forges

The grilles are what I like most, and hardly anyone looks at them. All the church’s grilles date from the 17th and 19th centuries and came from Ordino’s forges, owned by powerful families such as Casa Rossell and Casa d’Areny-Plandolit. It’s the iron of the iron route turned into church fittings.

Outside on the same square there’s a small comunidor, the structure from which rituals to protect the village were held.

If you are short on time, see the best tours in Sant Corneli i Sant Cebrià and pick one that fits your day.

How to visit

Going in costs nothing, as in every church in the country bar Santa Coloma, and opening days are on the museus.ad calendar. I’d give it a calm quarter of an hour and carry on through the old quarter to Casa d’Areny-Plandolit, the country’s only manor house.

Getting there

From the capital, L6 buses climb to Ordino every half hour on weekdays. The church is in the old quarter, in the centre of the village.

Where the bus does not go, a car does: compare car hire in Andorra la Vella before you arrive rather than at the desk.

What to pair it with in Ordino

Carrer Major packs into a short stroll Casa d’Areny-Plandolit, at €7, Casa de la Muntanya, with the tourist office and its model of the country, and the Miniature Museum, with works you view through a microscope for €10. If you fancy more iron, part of the iron route can be walked between Llorts and La Cortinada, along the river.

Who it’s for

If you’re visiting Ordino, going in is close to essential, because it’s cheap and explains the village. If you only want Romanesque art, the little Virgin justifies the stop, but the building is mostly Baroque. In July or August, check the summer Romanesque programme too, which opens six churches around the country with a guide. I’d give it about twenty minutes, square included. On the way out, look up at the bell tower and the square in front, since the whole old quarter is small and worth a slow walk before you move on to the museums. It costs nothing to step inside, and it’s a quiet place to sit for a few minutes.

If you still need a way in, check the best ticket deals to Andorra la Vella from where you are.