Erts, where the valley splits in two

Erts is a village almost everyone drives through without braking, on the way to the slopes. That makes sense, because it sits right where the La Massana valley splits into two branches, one to Pal and one to Arinsal. But for anyone here to climb or cycle, this junction is far more useful than it looks.

A crossroads with old barns

The Comú de La Massana puts it in one line, from Erts you reach Pal and Arinsal. It adds that, as at any meeting of paths, its traditional bordas, the old stone barns, are known for their hospitality, and some are now restaurants. That, to my mind, is the best reason to stop, a proper lunch in a borda before or after heading up to the ski area.

The village lies halfway between La Massana and Arinsal, and Andorra Turisme puts the junction at 1,340 m. The CG-4 climbs to Pal and the CG-5 to Arinsal.

In winter the junction is also a handy place to kit yourself out. Andorra Turisme counts thirteen ski hire shops in the parish, and Erts is one of the villages it lists them in, alongside La Massana, Arinsal and Anyós. If you’re touring in a motorhome, the national tourist board lists Camping Xixerella in Erts as an overnight stop.

Sant Romà and what’s left of the old church

The church of Sant Romà d’Erts is small and sits right by the road. It has a square plan, a two-opening bell gable over the entrance and a porch. Inside is a Baroque altarpiece brought from the older church, with scenes of St Roman’s martyrdom and a niche holding the Immaculate Conception, flanked by the Annunciation.

The interesting part is a few steps away. Where the path starts to climb behind the village stand the remains of the original Romanesque church, its north wall and the base of the apse. It won’t take long, but it shows neatly how a new church went up beside the old one instead of on top of it.

The Roc de la Coma d’Erts via ferrata

If you’ve packed a harness, this is your excuse. The route is 435 m long with 200 m of ascent, graded medium, with long chained steps on the left and some airy, slightly sporty sections. It’s free, faces south-west and tops out at 1,650 m. Andorra Turisme allows 15 minutes to reach it, 2 hours on the route and 35 minutes back down. Andorra’s other routes are compared in via ferratas in Andorra.

Two climbs from the same spot

For road cyclists, Erts is kilometre zero. Route 10 climbs to Pal in 8.4 km with 560 m of ascent at an average 6.7%, finishing where a 1993 Tour de France stage ended. Route 12 goes to Arinsal in 7 km at 8.2%, shorter and a good deal harder. I’d start with Pal. More passes are in road cycling in Andorra.