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    Walls of the old castle at Smlednik, in Medvode municipality, looking over the plain towards the Alps

    Central Slovenia town

    Medvode, the town between two rivers a quarter of an hour from Ljubljana

    Facts checked on
    Population
    5,451 the town, 17,580 the municipality
    Municipality
    77.7 km²

    Medvode, a quarter of an hour from Ljubljana by bus or train, is where the Sora river joins the Sava, hence its name, «between waters». What to see: the 69-hectare man-made Lake Zbilje, the ruins of Smlednik castle, the birthplace of Jakob Aljaž, a key figure in Slovenian mountaineering, and the Polhov Gradec Dolomites. The town has 5,451 people and its municipality 17,580.

    How I would do it

    I'd hire a bike at the tourist office in the station and ride round Lake Zbilje with a climb to Smlednik castle. If you like walking, the Polhov Gradec Dolomites are right there.

    Medvode: the quick answer

    Full read: 2 min

    • Medvode has 5,451 people and stands where the Sora meets the Sava.
    • Lake Zbilje, from 1953, has canoes and boats for hire.
    • Jakob Aljaž, who built the tower on the summit of Triglav, was born here.
    • Nearly a hundred buses a day run from Ljubljana on weekdays.

    What I would book

    My key points

    Worth knowing about Medvode

    1. 01 Most beautiful

      Between waters

      Medvode's name, «between waters», comes from the confluence of the Sora and the Sava. Locals say nobody is truly from Medvode until they have swum there.

    2. 02 Most beautiful

      Aljaž's tower

      Jakob Aljaž, born at Zavrh pod Šmarno goro in 1845, bought the summit of Triglav for one gulden and in 1895 raised the tower that bears his name.

    3. 03 My tip

      Bikes at the station

      The tourist office is at Medvode railway station and hires out trekking bikes, also good on dirt tracks.

    4. 04 Getting there

      On to Kamnik and Domžale

      On the other side of Ljubljana, Domžale and Kamnik round off the sights of the central plain.

      Domžale

    Things to see: Lake Zbilje and Smlednik castle

    Lake Zbilje is a reservoir on the Sava created in 1953 by the dam of the Medvode power station. It covers 69 hectares and, when the water is high, stretches up to 5 km. You can hire canoes and rowing boats, and there is a playground and a picnic area. A bridge crosses it to Valburga, below the old castle at Smlednik, ruins counted among the most important in Slovenia. It began in the Romanesque period, was rebuilt after the earthquake of 1511, and from the top you see Triglav, the Karavanke and the Kamnik-Savinja Alps.

    Jakob Aljaž’s birthplace

    At Zavrh pod Šmarno goro the house still stands where Jakob Aljaž, priest, composer and mountaineer, was born in 1845. As parish priest of Dovje he bought the summit of Triglav for one gulden and in 1895 put up the Aljaž Tower there, assembled in five hours, as well as huts such as the one on Kredarica. He also set «Oj, Triglav, moj dom» to music, one of his best-known songs, and translated the carol «Silent Night» into Slovenian.

    The Polhov Gradec Dolomites

    To the south-west rise the Polhov Gradec Dolomites, with peaks such as Grmada, at 898 m, and Tošč, at 1,021 m, and in the village of Žlebe stands the Gothic church of St Margaret, which legend says the last lords of Jeterbenk built to atone for the crimes of their robber-knight ancestors. At Hraše, near Smlednik, two ponds form a 5-hectare wetland with birds and frogs, and by the Sora dam there is a river beach with water fit for bathing.

    If you are staying the night, see the best hotel deals in Medvode for your dates: the well-placed rooms go fast.

    Medvode, between two rivers

    Medvode has 5,451 people and heads a municipality of 17,580 covering 77.7 km². Its name, «between waters», comes from the confluence of the Sora, which flows down from the Dolomites, with the Sava, and the confluence appears on its coat of arms and flag. The area is mentioned as early as the 10th century, and it began to grow at the end of the 15th, when Emperor Frederick III allowed a bridge to be built. Locals say nobody is truly from Medvode until they have swum at the confluence.

    Getting there from Ljubljana

    Medvode is a quarter of an hour from Ljubljana by bus or train, and the tourist office is in the station. To carry on across the plain, there is Kamnik, and the whole region in central Slovenia.

    If you are staying the night, see the best hotel deals in Medvode for your dates: the well-placed rooms go fast.

    What to see in Medvode municipality

    PlaceWhat it is
    Sora-Sava confluenceThe spot that gives the town its name
    Lake ZbiljeA 1953 reservoir on the Sava, with boats and canoes
    Old castle at SmlednikRuins of a medieval castle with views of the Alps
    Jakob Aljaž's birthplaceAt Zavrh pod Šmarno goro
    Church of St Margaret (Žlebe)Late Gothic, from the early 16th century
    Hraše pondsA 5 ha wetland with birds and amphibians

    Visit Medvode, checked on 17 October 2026.

    Šutna street in Kamnik at dusk, with the street lamps lit, colourful façades and the curving cobbled pavement

    Šutna street in Kamnik at dusk, with the street lamps lit, colourful façades and the curving cobbled pavement

    Parish church of the Assumption of Mary in Domžale, the town between Ljubljana and Kamnik

    Parish church of the Assumption of Mary in Domžale, the town between Ljubljana and Kamnik

    Test yourself

    True or false?

    0/3 Pick before you peek.

    1. Medvode means «between waters».

      See the answer

      True. The name comes from the confluence of the Sora and the Sava, which also features on the coat of arms.

    2. Lake Zbilje is a natural glacial lake.

      See the answer

      False. It is a reservoir on the Sava, created in 1953 by the dam of the Medvode power station.

    3. Jakob Aljaž bought the summit of Triglav for one gulden.

      See the answer

      True. That allowed him to build the Aljaž Tower legally; it went up in five hours on 7 August 1895.

    Town population
    5,451
    Lake Zbilje
    69 ha
    Jakob Aljaž born
    1845
    Tošč, highest peak nearby
    1,021 m

    Medvode: questions and answers

    What is there to see in Medvode?

    The Sora-Sava confluence, Lake Zbilje, the ruins of the old castle at Smlednik, Jakob Aljaž's birthplace, the church of St Margaret at Žlebe, the Hraše ponds and the Polhov Gradec Dolomites.

    What can you do at Lake Zbilje?

    Hire canoes and rowing boats, sunbathe on the bar's loungers or fish. There is a playground, a beach-volleyball court and a picnic area, and a bridge links it to Valburga, below Smlednik castle.

    Who was Jakob Aljaž?

    A priest, composer and mountaineer born at Zavrh pod Šmarno goro in 1845. He bought the summit of Triglav, built the Aljaž Tower in 1895 and several huts, and set «Oj, Triglav, moj dom» to music.

    How do I get to Medvode from Ljubljana?

    By bus, the Ljubljana bus station planner showed nearly a hundred departures on Monday 19 October 2026, taking 15 to 19 minutes, and 48 on Saturday 24. There are also trains, and the tourist office is in the station itself.

    Can you visit Goričane Mansion?

    No, the baroque Goričane Mansion, where the Communist Party met with Tito under the code name Rudi in 1934, is closed to the public.

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    Sergio Lepone

    Questions about Medvode? Write to me

    I read every email. If a fact is wrong or missing, tell me and I will check it.

    My email sergiolepone@gmail.com

    Sergio Lepone

    By

    Tourism graduate with a master’s in Tourism Management and Planning from the University of Málaga, who has travelled across Europe. He writes every guide from official sources and his own judgement.

    Published on . Updated on . Facts checked on .

    How I check every fact and where it comes from

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    Photos: Janezdrilc (CC0); Krzysztof Golik (CC BY-SA 4.0); Ajznponar (CC0), via Wikimedia Commons.