The Parenzana, cycling the coast on a railway line from 1902

The Parenzana in Slovenia, Koper to Sečovlje

In Slovenia it’s tarmac and signed as cycle route D8. It passes Koper, follows the embankment along the shore to Izola, climbs towards Strunjan, goes through the Valeta tunnel and descends towards Portorož, Lucija and the Sečovlje salt pans. Between Lucija and Seča today’s path leaves the old line slightly to stay nearer the sea. The Koper to Izola stretch is the loveliest and the busiest, full of cyclists, skaters, walkers and runners.

Izola’s tourist information signs it as D6 or D8, rates it medium, 3 out of 5, and suggests a mountain bike because around Izola it mixes gravel and forest tracks. In town, the Izolana museum has a simulator that lets you ride the Parenzana without leaving the room, plus a model of Izola across 5,000 years.

What if I carry on into Croatia?

That’s where the line is most intact. The Croatian part is almost all gravel, with seven tunnels and six viaducts between Buje and Vižinada, viewpoints and a small Parenzana museum at Livade. The Region of Istria warns that, because of the surface, the full route is for mountain bikes rather than road or touring bikes, and you ride it at your own risk.

In one day or two

For one day, Koper to Izola to Portorož, with a long stop in Izola and a swim at Strunjan if the weather plays along. For two, I’d add the run down to the salt pans and the crossing into Croatia at Sečovlje. I’d sleep in Piran or Portorož, right in the middle. The rest of Slovenia’s riding, cycle paths, climbs and bike parks, is in cycling in Slovenia.

One more story for the road. The line’s worst accident came in 1910, when the bora overturned a train beyond the bridge at Osp and three people died. Wind barriers went up at the critical points afterwards, despite having been requested before.

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A short railway with a long tale

Work began in May 1900, the Trieste to Buje section opened on 1 April 1902 and Buje to Poreč followed that December. It ran about 123 km and served 33 towns, according to the Region of Istria, which leads the restoration project. In 1904 Portorož got its own station to bring bathers to the spa. The last train pulled into Trieste on 31 August 1935 and buses took over the next day. For decades railway families went on living in the station houses, and locals used the cool tunnels to grow mushrooms.

In 2002, the centenary, the Region of Istria launched the Parenzana, the Route of Health and Friendship, to turn the whole trackbed into a path for cyclists and walkers. It now crosses three countries, with 13 km in Italy, 32 km in Slovenia and 78 km in Croatia.

If you are short on time, see the best tours in Parenzana and pick one that fits your day.

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