Ljubljana in two days, the centre first, then Plečnik, Tivoli and Metelkova

Day 1: central Ljubljana

Day one follows my hour-by-hour plan in Ljubljana in a day. The central market first thing, the walk up to the castle, down Reber Street into the old town, lunch, the Triple Bridge, the National and University Library, the National Gallery and sunset on the river embankments. If you arrive on a Monday, swap the Gallery for a walk, as it is closed.

Day 2, morning: Trnovo and Plečnik House

Start at 10am at Plečnik House, Karunova 4, when the first guided tour of the day leaves. Visits to the home itself are guided, and €12 covers that plus the exhibition. Then head down to the Trnovo Bridge, itself part of the UNESCO listing, and follow the embankments towards the centre. Trnovo is a quiet district, covered in Trnovo.

Day 2, afternoon: National Museum and Tivoli

After lunch in the centre, go into the National Museum of Slovenia, in the Rudolfinum next to the National Gallery. It is the country’s oldest cultural institution, from 1821, and holds the Neanderthal flute from Divje babe and the Vače situla. It opens daily from 10am to 6pm, Thursdays until 8pm, and tickets cost €8, with a free audio guide and free entry on the first Sunday of the month.

Right outside, Tivoli Park begins. Walk to the mansion with its stairway of tongueless dogs and, if you have the energy, climb the forest trails towards Rožnik. The whole area covers 459 protected hectares with more than 15 km of paths.

Once your dates are set, check which hotels are still free in Liubliana before prices climb.

Day 2, evening: Metelkova

Have dinner in the centre and finish at Metelkova, the former barracks around 200 people occupied in 1993, now an autonomous cultural centre. Night-time is when it makes sense, with gigs and clubs that charge their own entry. If it is not your scene, the alternative is a last stroll along the lit-up river.

What it costs and where to stay two nights

With the castle without the funicular, the National Gallery and Plečnik House you spend €37 on tickets, and €45 with the National Museum. Both the National Gallery and the National Museum waive their fee on the first Sunday of each month, which brings the bill down to €27. Everything else is free. To avoid relying on anything, base yourself in the old town or near the river; for peace and quiet, Trnovo. And if you have a spare day, think about a trip to Bled or Postojna.

Once your dates are set, check which hotels are still free in Liubliana before prices climb.