Ljubljana by night, from riverside terraces to clubs in a squatted barracks

Riverside terraces for the first drink

The Slovenian Tourist Board calls the Ljubljanica the soul of the city, and its banks, with promenades, bars and restaurants with terraces, are the natural place for a first drink. I cover the rest of the river in the Ljubljanica.

In recent years something else has joined in. The Tourist Board reports that alongside the long-standing wine bars, cocktail bars have sprung up in Ljubljana, serving everything from mojitos to negronis as well as creations with local herbs and spirits, which appeal to locals and visitors alike.

Metelkova, the alternative night

If you are after something different, the place is Metelkova, a former barracks squatted by artists and collectives in 1993 and run since 1995 as an autonomous cultural zone. To the Tourist Board, few centres of alternative creativity in Europe are better known. Its clubs each run their own programme, from poetry and rock to electronica, dub or hardcore.

My advice is to check the line-up first, because each club has its own nights and what you find depends on what is on. It is a self-managed space, so respect its rules.

Kino Šiška and live music

For gigs, the reference is Kino Šiška, the urban culture centre that opened in 2009 in a 1961 modernist cinema in the Šiška district. According to the Ministry of Culture it puts on about 300 events a year, mostly concerts, from indie rock and alternative pop to experimental electronica and old-school heavy metal. It has two halls, the Katedrala, for about 900 standing, and the Komuna, for 200, plus a café that is a neighbourhood hangout.

Its stage has hosted names such as the Pixies, Queens of the Stone Age, Swans and Laibach. Outside the summer season, it is the best music plan in town.

To sleep close to everything, search places to stay in Liubliana on Expedia and filter by area before price.

Summer and Christmas nights

In summer the city moves outdoors. The Tourist Board lists the Ljubljana Festival, with its top-class programme at Križanke and other venues, the jazz festival, the Ana Desetnica street theatre festival, the Nights in Old Ljubljana and outdoor film screenings at the castle.

In December the squares, bridges and riverside become the city’s great meeting place, with the Christmas market, its food and drink stalls and free concerts; I cover it in Christmas in Ljubljana.

Getting back to your hotel at night

The centre is walkable, and I would stay near the river so as not to depend on anything. If you take an LPP city bus, remember you cannot pay in cash, only with a contactless bank card or the Urbana card; I explain it in getting around Ljubljana. And if you are not sure what to leave at the bar, see tipping in Slovenia.

To sleep close to everything, search places to stay in Liubliana on Booking.com and filter by area before price.