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    The Kranj plain at sunrise from Šmarjetna gora, with low mist over the villages and the mountains behind

    Regions of Slovenia

    Gorenjska, Upper Carniola, land of lakes and the Julian Alps

    Facts checked on
    Area
    2,137 km²
    Population (1-1-2026)
    209,939

    Gorenjska, or Upper Carniola, is the Slovenian region that gets the most visitors, 1,672,712 tourist arrivals in 2025 according to SURS. It covers 2,137 km² with 18 municipalities and 209,939 people, and holds Bled, Bohinj, Kranjska Gora, Radovljica, Kranj, Škofja Loka and most of the eastern Julian Alps, with Triglav (2,864 m).

    On a first trip to Slovenia I'd give Gorenjska half the days. Base yourself in Bohinj or Bled, not both, keep a day for Kranjska Gora and Vršič and half a day for Radovljica, which slips under the radar and deserves better.

    Sergio LeponeMy advice for Gorenjska

    What I would book ahead

    My ranking, scored

    What I'd see in Gorenjska, in order

    My personal order, scored out of 10, for a first visit: what each place offers and how well it fits a few days' trip around the region.

    1. Lake Bled and the island

      Slovenia's postcard, with the country's only natural island and a castle on the cliff recorded as early as 1011.

      9.5 out of 10

    2. Lake Bohinj

      The largest natural lake in Slovenia, inside Triglav National Park, with the Savica waterfall and Vogel above it.

      9.4 out of 10

    3. Vršič Pass and Kranjska Gora

      The highest road pass in the eastern Julian Alps, with Lake Jasna, the Russian Chapel and Zelenci nearby.

      9.0 out of 10

    4. Vintgar Gorge

      1.6 km of boardwalks over the Radovna between sheer walls, the first gorge in Slovenia opened to visitors.

      8.6 out of 10

    5. Radovljica

      A medieval old town with Slovenia's only surviving defensive moat and the Beekeeping Museum.

      8.3 out of 10

    6. Škofja Loka

      The Freising bishops' castle, built in 1202, and the Škofja Loka Passion, on UNESCO's intangible heritage list.

      8.1 out of 10

    7. Jezersko and Lake Planšar

      A mountain village below the Kamnik-Savinja Alps with a small heart-shaped lake.

      7.6 out of 10

    Notebook

    Worth knowing about Gorenjska

    1. 01 Most beautiful

      Bled, the lake with the island

      Bled Island is the only natural island in Slovenia, with its Church of the Mother of God, 99 steps and a wishing bell. You reach it by pletna, the traditional rowing boat.

      Lake Bled
    2. 02 Getting there

      You land inside Gorenjska

      Ljubljana's Jože Pučnik Airport is at Brnik, in the municipality of Cerklje na Gorenjskem, so you touch down inside the region.

      Ljubljana Airport
    3. 03 Worth the splurge

      Skiing ten minutes from the plane

      Krvavec, also in Cerklje, is about 10 minutes from the airport and the closest ski resort to Ljubljana.

      Krvavec ski resort
    4. 04 To save money

      A free shuttle from Radovljica to Bled

      In July and August a free shuttle runs between Radovljica and Bled, and Bohinj has mobility cards that make the valley's buses free.

      Radovljica
    5. 05 My tip

      A statistical region, not a county

      Gorenjska is a SURS statistical region and a historical one, with no government of its own. The tourist board puts nearly all of it under 'Alpine Slovenia'.

      regions of Slovenia

    What Gorenjska, Upper Carniola, is

    It’s one of Slovenia’s 12 statistical regions, with 2,137 km², 18 municipalities, 469 settlements and 209,939 residents on 1 January 2026. It has no government of its own, because the regions provided for in the constitution have never been created, as the government itself explains. It’s also a historical region, Upper Carniola, and many Slovenians still think of it that way. The tourist board puts almost all of it in its ‘Alpine Slovenia’ destination, apart from Škofja Loka and Cerklje, which go with Ljubljana. So I talk about a statistical region, not a county.

    Bled, Bohinj and Kranjska Gora

    Bled is the third busiest municipality in Slovenia, with 499,659 arrivals in 2025, and it isn’t hard to see why. The island, the only natural one in the country, the castle recorded in written sources in 1011 and Vintgar Gorge a few kilometres away make it the hub of almost any trip. I like it best early in the day or in the shoulder months, when you can walk round the lake in peace.

    Bohinj is the quiet alternative. Its lake is the largest natural lake in Slovenia, glacial in origin and inside Triglav National Park. It has the 78 m Savica waterfall, the Vogel ski area and more than 400 km of trails. It drew 323,794 arrivals in 2025, but spread across a far bigger valley.

    Kranjska Gora, in the Upper Sava Valley, is the classic Alpine resort, with 383,377 arrivals. Winter means skiing; summer means the Vršič Pass, Lake Jasna, the Zelenci reserve and the Planica ski jumps.

    Radovljica, Kranj and Škofja Loka

    Kranj is the region’s largest town, with 38,089 people, and the town of Prešeren, the poet behind the national anthem. Its old centre stands on a rock over the Kokra canyon, with 1,300 m of tunnels beneath it. Škofja Loka has the Freising bishops’ castle from 1202 and the Škofja Loka Passion, Slovenia’s oldest surviving play text, listed by UNESCO as intangible heritage. Radovljica, 8 km from Bled, has the only surviving defensive moat in the country and the Beekeeping Museum. All three give context to the most photographed corner of the region.

    To sleep close to everything, search places to stay in Bled on Expedia and filter by area before price.

    Mountains in every direction

    Gorenjska wraps around three ranges. The Julian Alps, with Triglav (2,864 m) and almost all of it inside the national park, which I cover in the Julian Alps guide. The Karawanks on the Austrian border, above Jesenice and Tržič. And the Kamnik-Savinja Alps, with Jezersko and its heart-shaped Lake Planšar. For skiing there’s Kranjska Gora, Vogel, Krvavec and the small resorts around Škofja Loka.

    What to eat and when to go

    Gorenjska has dishes with names. The Bled cream cake; Mohant cheese from Bohinj, which carries a protected designation of origin, and Bohinj cheese; lake trout; rateški krapi from Rateče, potato parcels filled with curd cheese; and in Radovljica honey, chocolate and lectar, which the tourist board bundles together as ‘sweet Radol’ca’. The tourist board also mentions Bled cheese.

    The calendar pulls its weight too. In summer Bled floats more than 10,000 candles on the lake, and in December it puts on its Winter Fairytale. Bohinj holds a two-week International Wild Flower Festival and a cow ball when the herds come down from the high pastures. And every March, Planica hosts the big ski-flying weekend. The 2027 dates hadn’t been published on official sources when I wrote this.

    If you are short on time, see the best tours in Bled and pick one that fits your day.

    How many days and getting about

    Ljubljana airport is at Brnik, inside the region, and Bled is about 50 km from the capital. According to the tourist board, buses to Bled are frequent, a free shuttle links Radovljica and Bled in July and August, Kranjska Gora runs a free ski bus and Bohinj offers mobility cards. If you’re driving in from Venice or Trieste, buy the DARS e-vignette before you hit the motorway. For a first visit I’d give Gorenjska three to five days, based in Bled or Bohinj.

    To sleep close to everything, search places to stay in Bled on Booking.com and filter by area before price.

    Bled Island with the Church of the Mother of God and its white bell tower in the middle of the lake, backed by forest and mountains

    Bled Island with the Church of the Mother of God and its white bell tower in the middle of the lake, backed by forest and mountains

    Lake Bohinj from the top of Vogel, stretched out between wooded slopes and rock walls, with the Julian Alps peaks behind

    Lake Bohinj from the top of Vogel, stretched out between wooded slopes and rock walls, with the Julian Alps peaks behind

    A street in the centre of Kranjska Gora with café terraces, alpine houses and the church tower beneath the mountains

    A street in the centre of Kranjska Gora with café terraces, alpine houses and the church tower beneath the mountains

    The 18 municipalities of Gorenjska

    MunicipalityPopulation (1-1-2026)Tourist arrivals (2025)
    Kranj57,49168,774
    Škofja Loka23,85021,607
    Jesenice21,76919,550
    Radovljica19,359191,176
    Tržič15,04411,048
    Šenčur9,04115,377
    Bled8,103499,659
    Cerklje na Gorenjskem8,02941,110
    Gorenja vas-Poljane7,7394,901
    Železniki6,62911,741
    Naklo5,49412,813
    Bohinj5,216323,794
    Žiri5,159707
    Kranjska Gora5,143383,377
    Žirovnica4,51519,030
    Preddvor3,9469,037
    Gorje2,73326,129
    Jezersko67912,882

    SURS, population on 1-1-2026 and 2025 tourist arrivals by municipality, checked on 04-10-2026.

    Test yourself

    Myths and facts about Gorenjska

    0/3 Pick before you peek.

    1. Gorenjska is the Slovenian region that receives the most tourists.

      See the answer

      True. It logged 1,672,712 arrivals in 2025, ahead of the Ljubljana region (1,547,866), according to SURS.

    2. Gorenjska has its own regional government.

      See the answer

      False. It's a statistical region. The government explains that the regions foreseen in the constitution haven't been set up for lack of political consensus.

    3. Ljubljana airport is in Gorenjska.

      See the answer

      True. It's at Brnik, in the municipality of Cerklje na Gorenjskem, which belongs to the region.

    What to see

    What there is in Gorenjska

    0 of 425 Slovenia guides

    Your next stamp

    1. Kranj
    2. Kranjska Gora
    3. Things to do

    What people ask most about Gorenjska

    What is Gorenjska in Slovenia?

    It's one of Slovenia's 12 statistical regions, in the north-west, and also a historical region known in English as Upper Carniola. It has no regional government. It covers 2,137 km² and has 18 municipalities.

    What is there to see in Gorenjska?

    Lake Bled and its island, Lake Bohinj, Kranjska Gora and the Vršič Pass, Vintgar Gorge, Radovljica, Kranj, Škofja Loka and the eastern half of Triglav National Park.

    What's the largest town in Gorenjska?

    Kranj, with 38,089 people in the town and 57,491 in the municipality on 1 January 2026, according to SURS. Škofja Loka and Jesenice come next.

    How many tourists visit Gorenjska?

    1,672,712 arrivals in 2025, more than any other region, says SURS. Bled, Kranjska Gora, Bohinj and Radovljica alone account for 1,398,006.

    How do I get to Gorenjska from the UK?

    Fly to Ljubljana, whose airport at Brnik is inside the region. Bled is about 50 km from the capital, with frequent buses, and you can also come by road from Venice or Trieste with a DARS vignette for the motorway.

    What's the weather like in Gorenjska?

    It's the most Alpine region of the country. At Rateče in the Upper Sava Valley the 2001-2010 averages were −3.8 °C in January and 17.5 °C in July, according to official statistics.

    Sergio Lepone

    Questions about Gorenjska? Write to me

    If your question is not answered here, write to me and I will look it up in the official sources.

    My email sergiolepone@gmail.com

    Sergio Lepone

    By

    Tourism graduate with a master’s in Tourism Management and Planning from the University of Málaga, who has travelled across Europe. He writes every guide from official sources and his own judgement.

    Published on . Updated on . Facts checked on .

    How I check every fact and where it comes from

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    Photos: Mihael Grmek (CC BY-SA 3.0); Jakub Hałun (CC BY 4.0); Luka Peternel (CC BY-SA 4.0); .snoopy. (CC BY-SA 4.0), via Wikimedia Commons.