Pyla, a village between two communities

Pyla is a one-off in Cyprus, and to me it’s worth a visit, however short. Not for its monuments, but for what it represents, a village where the island’s two communities still live together inside the strip the UN patrols.

Where it is

Pyla belongs to Larnaca district and lies about 12 km north-east of central Larnaca as the crow flies. The 2021 census counted 3,869 residents. In Turkish it’s called Pile. The main photo shows its flat and red rooftops from above.

The only mixed village

The UN mission in Cyprus, UNFICYP, explains that the buffer zone runs about 180 km across the island and that its villages and civil use areas are home or workplace to more than 10,000 people. In its eastern part lies Pyla, which the UN singles out as the island’s only village with Greek Cypriot and Turkish Cypriot neighbours side by side. Another photo shows the church of St George, with its arcaded porch and two bell towers.

The UN also points out that in this part of the island the British base at Dhekelia breaks the buffer zone, and the UN has no presence inside it. The full background is in the Green Line and the British Sovereign Base Areas.

Once your dates are set, check which hotels are still free in Larnaca before prices climb.

Before you go

According to the UN, civilians can enter the civil use areas of the buffer zone freely, while elsewhere in the zone UNFICYP authorisation is required. I wouldn’t photograph UN or military positions.

There’s one important practical point. Gov.uk warns that goods bought in Pyla count as bought in the north when you cross southwards. The Republic of Cyprus limits tobacco, for example, to 40 cigarettes per person, and the authorities can confiscate the rest and fine you. An EU regulation of 2004 also allows the eastern base to keep up the traditional supply of goods from the north to the village’s Turkish Cypriot residents.

Pyla beach

On the coast, the tourist strip of the Larnaca to Dhekelia road includes Pyla beach, popular with families. The Larnaca Tourism Board describes fine grey sand and calm, shallow water, lifeguards in season, sunbeds, showers, a floating wheelchair, a beach bar and beach tennis and volleyball courts. It’s compared with the others in Larnaca beaches.

If you would rather have a local show you round, book a guided tour in Larnaca and choose by the reviews.

Pairing it with other places

Pyla is close to Yiannades beach and the Dhekelia road, so a morning in the village pairs easily with an afternoon on the sand. If the island’s division interests you, I’d pair it with crossing to Northern Cyprus, taking it slowly and reading the rules first. The rest of the district is in Larnaca district.

A car frees you from timetables: search car hire in Larnaca on DiscoverCars and compare companies.

Once your dates are set, check which hotels are still free in Larnaca before prices climb.