Panagia Asinou, the Virgin Forviotissa by the stream

Asinou has something the village churches don’t, and that’s silence. It stands alone in the countryside at the foot of the mountains, which makes the visit feel different. The little that UNESCO and, above all, the Troodos Development Company say about it is enough to see why it’s on the list.

A church on its own

UNESCO lists it as Panayia Phorviotissa (Asinou), at Nikitari, within the painted churches of Troodos property. According to the company, it sits on the northern foothills of the mountains, on the east bank of a stream, three kilometres south of the village of Nikitari, which had 439 residents at the 2021 census. So it’s a visit that needs a car and a small detour from the Solea valley.

Art from many centuries

What makes Asinou special is the long life of its decoration. The company speaks of Byzantine art created between the 12th and 19th centuries that has survived for us to see today, and specifies that the wall frescoes run from the 12th to the 17th centuries. That turns it into a small summary of the island’s religious painting across several eras, from the Byzantines to Ottoman rule.

It also shares the features UNESCO describes across the whole property, a steep wooden roof with flat tiles and plenty of dated inscriptions, which are what allow specialists to date each phase.

Once your dates are set, check which hotels are still free in Kakopetria before prices climb.

On the Solea route

The company includes it in its 138 kilometre Solea route through Nikitari, Galata and Kakopetria. At Galata stands Panagia Podithou, from 1502, and next to Kakopetria, Agios Nikolaos tis Stegis, from the 11th century. If you do all three in one day, I’d start with Asinou, the furthest out, and finish in Kakopetria for dinner and the night.

Before you go

UNESCO points out that all ten churches are still places of worship and free to visit. Asinou’s opening hours aren’t published by any official source I’m able to use, so I leave them out. My advice is to go in daylight, with time in hand, and if you find it closed, ask in Nikitari. As in any church in use, dress appropriately and respect any service you happen upon. In summer, take water and a hat, as the church stands in open country with little around it.

If you would rather have a local show you round, book a guided tour in Panagia Asinou and choose by the reviews.

Who it’s for

Asinou is for anyone who has already seen one painted church and wants another of the great ones, or who prefers countryside to villages. If you only have time for one church in this valley, Stegis is easier, but Asinou leaves a deeper impression. To place it in the wider mountains, see my guide to the Troodos Mountains.

A car frees you from timetables: search car hire in Limassol on DiscoverCars and compare companies.

Once your dates are set, check which hotels are still free in Kakopetria before prices climb.