One week in Cyprus with two bases and no car

A week is, for me, just the right amount of time for Cyprus if you don’t want to rush. And there’s a way of doing it most people never consider, without a car. Hire cars help, of course, but with two well-chosen bases and a couple of organised trips you can see the best of the south without touching a steering wheel. If you’d rather drive, the alternative is the Cyprus road trip.

Why Paphos and Larnaca?

Because they’re the two airport towns, each has its own bus network, and between them they cover almost everything I care about. Paphos gives you the west, Akamas and Aphrodite’s coast; Larnaca gives you the capital and the east coast. Four nights in the first, three in the second, with the switch mid-week. Both are well served from the UK, so flying into one and home from the other is easy to arrange.

Days 1 to 4, Paphos and the west

From Paphos Airport, Pafos Buses routes 612 and 613 take you into town for €2. Spend that first afternoon walking round the mosaics of Kato Paphos. On day two, take the bus to Polis and Latchi for the morning boat to the Blue Lagoon, and in the afternoon route 622 to the Baths of Aphrodite. Latchi itself is covered in Latchi.

On day three, route 631 runs out to Kouklia’s sanctuary and on to Petra tou Romiou; with the €6.50 day ticket you can hop on and off. Day four is for the mountains. Without a car, this is where I’d book an organised trip to the Troodos, with Kykkos, stone villages and one of the painted churches. More in the Troodos Mountains.

If you are staying the night, see the best hotel deals in Paphos for your dates: the well-placed rooms go fast.

Day 5, how do you change base without a car?

Calmly, with the €20 island-wide day ticket, which also covers the coaches between towns. Alternatively, take a shuttle; according to the Cyprus By Bus portal, Kapnos charges about €15 between Larnaca and Paphos Airport. Spend the afternoon in Larnaca, at the Church of Saint Lazarus and along the palm-lined Finikoudes promenade. More on the town in Larnaca.

Days 6 and 7, Nicosia and the east coast

The capital is some 37 km inland, an inexpensive coach ride away. Spend the day on the ramparts, in the Cyprus Museum and, passport ready, across the Ledra Street checkpoint. Within Nicosia and Larnaca, a paper Motion card gives you four trips for €8.70.

On the last day, the east coast. Ayia Napa lies roughly 35 km east, with Cape Greco another 9 km on, all cliffs and sea caves; Cyprus By Bus puts the coach from Larnaca at about €4. Sleep in Larnaca, about 6 km from the airport. If your flight leaves very early, swap the east coast for the Larnaca Salt Lake on the edge of town, where flamingos gather in the cooler months beside a lakeside mosque.

If you would rather go at your own pace, see the car hire deals in Paphos: the earlier you book, the more cars are left to choose from.

Before you book

Check each operator’s timetable the week before, as they change with the season, and carry some cash, because on Paphos buses singles, day tickets and night fares are bought on board. Book the Troodos trip and the Latchi boat a day or two ahead in July and August. And remember your GHIC and travel insurance; gov.uk is clear the card covers medically necessary state care only.

When this week works best

Spring and autumn, when the heat is gentler than in August and the light is better for photos. The WMO gives Paphos average highs of about 22°C in April and 27°C in October, comfortable for walking round Kato Paphos and Nicosia’s walls all day.

If you are staying the night, see the best hotel deals in Paphos for your dates: the well-placed rooms go fast.