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Ledra Street in Nicosia in the afternoon, pedestrianised and lined with shops and old buildings with balconies

From 1963 to now, without adjectives

The Cyprus problem, told in facts and dates

Cyprus has been divided since 1974. After a coup against President Makarios, Turkey launched a military operation on the north coast, and since then the north hasn't been under the effective control of the Republic's government. A UN buffer zone about 180 km long separates the two parts, and it has been possible to cross since 2003.

In 30 seconds

Full read: 3 min

  • The island has been divided since 1974, after a coup and a Turkish military operation.
  • The UN has been there since 1964, and its buffer zone is about 180 km long.
  • The northern entity declared in 1983 is recognised only by Turkey.
  • Crossing points have been open since 2003.
  • The whole island is EU territory, but EU law is suspended in the north.

Before you cross at Ledra Street, I'd read this story properly. What you see on the other side makes more sense, and people on both sides appreciate it.

Sergio LeponeMy advice

Before you go

What I would keep in mind

  1. 01 Getting there

    The UN has been there since 1964

    The Security Council set up UNFICYP unanimously on 4 March 1964, and the UN counts it among its longest-running peacekeeping missions.

    history of Cyprus
  2. 02 Most beautiful

    Pyla, the shared village

    Inside the buffer zone, Pyla is, according to the UN, the only village where Greek Cypriots and Turkish Cypriots live side by side.

    districts of Cyprus
  3. 03 Watch out

    Mines are still there

    The UN counts 47 suspected hazardous areas with mines or explosive remnants. Stick to the crossings and marked routes in the buffer zone.

    is Cyprus part of Greece
  4. 04 My tip

    Crossing is straightforward

    Crossings have been open since 2003. Ledra Street in Nicosia is pedestrian only, and gov.uk notes that time in the north counts towards your 90 days.

    crossing to northern Cyprus

What I would book

The division of Cyprus is the first thing you notice in Nicosia, where a UN strip cuts through the old city, and it’s a sensitive subject. I tell it my way, with facts, dates and no adjectives. For the long view, from the Neolithic onwards, start with the history of Cyprus.

A state built on power-sharing

The Republic was born in 1960 with a very particular constitution. According to the UN, the presidency went to a Greek Cypriot and the vice-presidency to a Turkish Cypriot, with cabinet posts shared seven to three. In the House, 35 seats were Greek Cypriot and 15 Turkish Cypriot, the House itself records.

The balance didn’t last. On 30 November 1963 President Makarios proposed thirteen amendments to the constitution, and on 21 December fighting broke out between the two communities. Turkish Cypriots withdrew from the government and the House, where their seats remain empty. On 4 March 1964 the Security Council unanimously adopted resolution 186, which created the UN peacekeeping force, UNFICYP.

The summer of 1974

The UN sums it up like this. On 15 July 1974 the National Guard, under the direction of Greek officers, staged a coup against the government of President Makarios. On 20 July Turkey began military action along the north coast, citing the 1960 Treaty of Guarantee. The ceasefire took effect on 16 August at six in the evening, and the positions held at that moment are today’s buffer zone boundaries.

From that moment the Republic has not governed the northern part of the island in practice, an area of roughly 3,355 km² out of 9,253, by the Spanish foreign ministry’s figures. How many people live on each side, with the figures that exist, is in the population of Cyprus.

If you are staying the night, see the best hotel deals in Nicosia for your dates: the well-placed rooms go fast.

The Green Line

The buffer zone, which everyone calls the Green Line, runs about 180 km from Kato Pyrgos in the north-west to Dherinia in the east, according to the UN. Its width ranges from under 20 metres in old Nicosia to about 7 km near Athienou. Altogether it covers around 3% of the island, and I look at it closely in the Green Line in Cyprus.

There’s life inside it. According to the UN, over 10,000 people live or work in villages and civil use areas inside it, and in Pyla the two communities share the same village, the only place where that happens. The same source counts 47 suspected hazardous areas with mines or explosive remnants. The zone is interrupted by the British base at Dhekelia, where the UN doesn’t operate.

1983 and the question of recognition

On 15 November 1983 the Turkish Cypriot leadership declared the so-called ‘Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus’. Three days later the Security Council passed resolution 541, deploring the declaration, calling it legally invalid and urging every state to recognise no Cypriot state but the Republic. Only Turkey recognises it, and gov.uk states that the British government doesn’t.

Varosha, the former resort district of Famagusta, has its own story. Resolution 550 of 1984 considers it inadmissible for anyone other than its inhabitants to settle there and calls for it to be handed to UN administration. In 2020 and 2021 the Security Council called for the partial reopening announced there to be reversed, and the EU deplored it.

So you do not lose the morning at the ticket office, browse tickets and tours in Nicosia on GetYourGuide.

From open crossings to the EU

In April 2003 the first crossing points between north and south opened, and people have crossed routinely ever since. On 1 May 2004 Cyprus joined the EU as a de facto divided island. The EU treats the whole island as its territory but suspended EU law in the north until there’s a settlement, and a 2004 regulation governs the movement of people and goods across the Green Line.

Talks go on. The Crans-Montana summit broke up without a deal in July 2017, the Spanish foreign ministry records, and UNFICYP remains on the ground. If you want to cross, I go through it step by step in crossing to northern Cyprus, and the question of whether the island is Greek or Turkish is answered in is Cyprus part of Greece.

If you would rather go at your own pace, see the car hire deals in Nicosia: the earlier you book, the more cars are left to choose from.

If you are staying the night, see the best hotel deals in Nicosia for your dates: the well-placed rooms go fast.

The landscaped moat below the Venetian walls of Nicosia, with angled stone ramparts, lawns and palm trees

The landscaped moat below the Venetian walls of Nicosia, with angled stone ramparts, lawns and palm trees

Nicosia seen from the Shacolas Tower, with the twin minarets of the Selimiye Mosque and the Kyrenia range behind

Nicosia seen from the Shacolas Tower, with the twin minarets of the Selimiye Mosque and the Kyrenia range behind

Key dates of the division

DateWhat happenedSource
16 August 1960Independence, with a power-sharing constitution between the communitiesUN
21 December 1963Intercommunal fighting beginsUN
4 March 1964Security Council resolution 186 sets up UNFICYPUN
15 July 1974Coup against President MakariosUN
20 July 1974Turkish military operation on the north coastUN
16 August 1974Ceasefire; its lines mark today's buffer zoneUN
15 November 1983The so-called 'Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus' is declaredUN
18 November 1983Resolution 541 declares it legally invalidUN
April 2003First crossing points openUN
1 May 2004Cyprus joins the EU, divided de factoEU
July 2017Crans-Montana talks end without agreementSpanish foreign ministry

Checked on 4 October 2026.

Test yourself

True or false?

0/3 Pick before you peek.

  1. The UN peacekeeping force arrived in Cyprus in 1974.

    See the answer

    False. It arrived in 1964, after Security Council resolution 186, because of the fighting that began in 1963.

  2. In Nicosia the buffer zone is less than 20 metres wide in places.

    See the answer

    True. That's the UN's figure, which also gives up to about 7 km near Athienou.

  3. You've been able to cross between north and south since 2003.

    See the answer

    True. The UN records that the first crossing points opened in April 2003.

Year of the division
1974
Length of the UN zone
180 km
Narrowest width in Nicosia
20 m
First crossings open
2003

What to see

What to see in The division

0 of 421 Cyprus guides

Your next stamp

  1. History
  2. Green Line
  3. Map

Frequently asked questions

Why is Cyprus divided?

According to the UN, on 15 July 1974 the National Guard, led by Greek officers, staged a coup against the Makarios government, and on 20 July Turkey launched a military operation on the north coast, citing the 1960 Treaty of Guarantee. Since then the north hasn't been under the government's effective control.

When was Cyprus divided?

In 1974. The ceasefire of 16 August that year set the lines that now bound the UN buffer zone.

What is the Green Line in Cyprus?

It's the UN buffer zone, about 180 km from one end of the island to the other. In Nicosia it's less than 20 metres wide at its narrowest, and near Athienou it reaches about 7 km.

Who recognises Northern Cyprus?

Only Turkey. The Security Council declared the 1983 secession legally invalid in resolution 541, and gov.uk says the British government doesn't recognise it.

Can you cross between north and south Cyprus?

Yes, since April 2003, at the official crossing points. Gov.uk notes that only pedestrians can use Ledra Street and Ledra Palace, and that your time in the north counts towards your 90 days in the Republic.

Sergio Lepone

By

Tourism graduate with a master’s in Tourism Management and Planning from the University of Málaga, who has travelled across Europe. He writes every guide from official sources and his own judgement.

Published on . Facts checked on .

How I check every fact and where it comes from

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Photos: NicosiaKypros (CC BY-SA 3.0); Balou46 (CC BY-SA 4.0); Hansueli Krapf This file was uploaded with Commonist. (CC BY-SA 3.0), via Wikimedia Commons.