From 1963 to now, without adjectives
The Cyprus problem, told in facts and dates
Cyprus has been divided since 1974. After a coup against President Makarios, Turkey launched a military operation on the north coast, and since then the north hasn't been under the effective control of the Republic's government. A UN buffer zone about 180 km long separates the two parts, and it has been possible to cross since 2003.
In 30 seconds
Full read: 3 min
- The island has been divided since 1974, after a coup and a Turkish military operation.
- The UN has been there since 1964, and its buffer zone is about 180 km long.
- The northern entity declared in 1983 is recognised only by Turkey.
- Crossing points have been open since 2003.
- The whole island is EU territory, but EU law is suspended in the north.
Before you cross at Ledra Street, I'd read this story properly. What you see on the other side makes more sense, and people on both sides appreciate it.
Before you go
What I would keep in mind
-
01 Getting there
The UN has been there since 1964
The Security Council set up UNFICYP unanimously on 4 March 1964, and the UN counts it among its longest-running peacekeeping missions.
history of Cyprus -
02 Most beautiful
Pyla, the shared village
Inside the buffer zone, Pyla is, according to the UN, the only village where Greek Cypriots and Turkish Cypriots live side by side.
districts of Cyprus -
03 Watch out
Mines are still there
The UN counts 47 suspected hazardous areas with mines or explosive remnants. Stick to the crossings and marked routes in the buffer zone.
is Cyprus part of Greece -
04 My tip
Crossing is straightforward
Crossings have been open since 2003. Ledra Street in Nicosia is pedestrian only, and gov.uk notes that time in the north counts towards your 90 days.
crossing to northern Cyprus
What I would book
The division of Cyprus is the first thing you notice in Nicosia, where a UN strip cuts through the old city, and it’s a sensitive subject. I tell it my way, with facts, dates and no adjectives. For the long view, from the Neolithic onwards, start with the history of Cyprus.
A state built on power-sharing
The Republic was born in 1960 with a very particular constitution. According to the UN, the presidency went to a Greek Cypriot and the vice-presidency to a Turkish Cypriot, with cabinet posts shared seven to three. In the House, 35 seats were Greek Cypriot and 15 Turkish Cypriot, the House itself records.
The balance didn’t last. On 30 November 1963 President Makarios proposed thirteen amendments to the constitution, and on 21 December fighting broke out between the two communities. Turkish Cypriots withdrew from the government and the House, where their seats remain empty. On 4 March 1964 the Security Council unanimously adopted resolution 186, which created the UN peacekeeping force, UNFICYP.
The summer of 1974
The UN sums it up like this. On 15 July 1974 the National Guard, under the direction of Greek officers, staged a coup against the government of President Makarios. On 20 July Turkey began military action along the north coast, citing the 1960 Treaty of Guarantee. The ceasefire took effect on 16 August at six in the evening, and the positions held at that moment are today’s buffer zone boundaries.
From that moment the Republic has not governed the northern part of the island in practice, an area of roughly 3,355 km² out of 9,253, by the Spanish foreign ministry’s figures. How many people live on each side, with the figures that exist, is in the population of Cyprus.
If you are staying the night, see the best hotel deals in Nicosia for your dates: the well-placed rooms go fast.
The Green Line
The buffer zone, which everyone calls the Green Line, runs about 180 km from Kato Pyrgos in the north-west to Dherinia in the east, according to the UN. Its width ranges from under 20 metres in old Nicosia to about 7 km near Athienou. Altogether it covers around 3% of the island, and I look at it closely in the Green Line in Cyprus.
There’s life inside it. According to the UN, over 10,000 people live or work in villages and civil use areas inside it, and in Pyla the two communities share the same village, the only place where that happens. The same source counts 47 suspected hazardous areas with mines or explosive remnants. The zone is interrupted by the British base at Dhekelia, where the UN doesn’t operate.
1983 and the question of recognition
On 15 November 1983 the Turkish Cypriot leadership declared the so-called ‘Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus’. Three days later the Security Council passed resolution 541, deploring the declaration, calling it legally invalid and urging every state to recognise no Cypriot state but the Republic. Only Turkey recognises it, and gov.uk states that the British government doesn’t.
Varosha, the former resort district of Famagusta, has its own story. Resolution 550 of 1984 considers it inadmissible for anyone other than its inhabitants to settle there and calls for it to be handed to UN administration. In 2020 and 2021 the Security Council called for the partial reopening announced there to be reversed, and the EU deplored it.
So you do not lose the morning at the ticket office, browse tickets and tours in Nicosia on GetYourGuide.
From open crossings to the EU
In April 2003 the first crossing points between north and south opened, and people have crossed routinely ever since. On 1 May 2004 Cyprus joined the EU as a de facto divided island. The EU treats the whole island as its territory but suspended EU law in the north until there’s a settlement, and a 2004 regulation governs the movement of people and goods across the Green Line.
Talks go on. The Crans-Montana summit broke up without a deal in July 2017, the Spanish foreign ministry records, and UNFICYP remains on the ground. If you want to cross, I go through it step by step in crossing to northern Cyprus, and the question of whether the island is Greek or Turkish is answered in is Cyprus part of Greece.
If you would rather go at your own pace, see the car hire deals in Nicosia: the earlier you book, the more cars are left to choose from.
If you are staying the night, see the best hotel deals in Nicosia for your dates: the well-placed rooms go fast.
The landscaped moat below the Venetian walls of Nicosia, with angled stone ramparts, lawns and palm trees
Nicosia seen from the Shacolas Tower, with the twin minarets of the Selimiye Mosque and the Kyrenia range behind
Key dates of the division
| Date | What happened | Source |
|---|---|---|
| 16 August 1960 | Independence, with a power-sharing constitution between the communities | UN |
| 21 December 1963 | Intercommunal fighting begins | UN |
| 4 March 1964 | Security Council resolution 186 sets up UNFICYP | UN |
| 15 July 1974 | Coup against President Makarios | UN |
| 20 July 1974 | Turkish military operation on the north coast | UN |
| 16 August 1974 | Ceasefire; its lines mark today's buffer zone | UN |
| 15 November 1983 | The so-called 'Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus' is declared | UN |
| 18 November 1983 | Resolution 541 declares it legally invalid | UN |
| April 2003 | First crossing points open | UN |
| 1 May 2004 | Cyprus joins the EU, divided de facto | EU |
| July 2017 | Crans-Montana talks end without agreement | Spanish foreign ministry |
Checked on 4 October 2026.
Test yourself
True or false?
0/3 Pick before you peek.
-
The UN peacekeeping force arrived in Cyprus in 1974.
See the answer
False. It arrived in 1964, after Security Council resolution 186, because of the fighting that began in 1963.
-
In Nicosia the buffer zone is less than 20 metres wide in places.
See the answer
True. That's the UN's figure, which also gives up to about 7 km near Athienou.
-
You've been able to cross between north and south since 2003.
See the answer
True. The UN records that the first crossing points opened in April 2003.
- Year of the division
- 1974
- Length of the UN zone
- 180 km
- Narrowest width in Nicosia
- 20 m
- First crossings open
- 2003
What to see
What to see in The division
0 of 421 Cyprus guides
Your next stamp
- History
- Green Line
- Map
- Greek or Turkish?
- The north
- Crossing to the north
- Facts
- Almyra Hotel
- Anassa Hotel
- Anastasia Beach
- Aphrodite Hills Resort
- Apostolos Andreas
- Bellapais Abbey
- Cap St Georges
- Church of St Lazarus
- Columbia Beach Resort
- Commandaria
- Coral Beach Hotel
- Cypriot food
- Dome Beach
- Four Seasons Limassol
- Golden Bay
- Grecian Park
- Hilton Nicosia
- Kourion
- Kyrenia Castle
- Larnaca
- Lefkara lace
- Limassol
- Limassol Carnival
- Meze
- Omodos
- Panagia Angeloktisti
- Places to visit
- Selimiye Mosque
- Soli
- St Barnabas Monastery
- Weather
- Wine routes
- Atlantica Miramare
- Büyük Han
- Cheap eats
- Cyprus in winter
- Finikoudes
- Halloumi
- Kantara Castle
- Kataklysmos
- Limassol Castle
- Narcissos
- Nissi Beach Resort
- Olympic Lagoon Paphos
- Othello Tower
- Sanctuary of Apollo Hylates
- Sea temperature
- Things to do
- Vouni
- Vouni Palace
- Alion Beach
- Cypriot desserts
- Cyprus in spring
- Elias Beach
- Golden Coast
- Koilani
- Kolossi Castle
- Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque
- Larnaca Castle
- Leonardo Laura Beach
- Limassol old town
- Limassol Wine Festival
- Most beautiful places
- Souvla
- St Hilarion Castle
- Arsos
- Buffavento Castle
- Crystal Springs
- Cypriot wine
- Cyprus in summer
- Easter in Cyprus
- Episkopi
- Kition
- Kleftiko
- Limanaki Beach
- Molos promenade
- Pafos Aphrodite Festival
- Pagona
- Prettiest villages
- St Raphael Resort
- Adams Beach
- Akrotiri peninsula
- Alasia Hotel
- Bellapais
- Cyprus in autumn
- Elysium Hotel
- Green Monday
- Independence Day
- Limassol Marina
- Pierides Museum
- Sheftalia
- Sunrise Pearl
- UNESCO World Heritage
- Vasa Koilaniou
- Akrotiri salt lake
- Amathus Beach
- Christmas
- Cyprus in January
- Grecian Bay
- Larnaca Archaeological Museum
- Limassol old port
- Lofou
- Venus Beach Hotel
- Vrissiana
- Asterias Beach
- Capo Bay
- Cypriot coffee
- Cyprus in February
- Kamares Aqueduct
- Kefalos Beach
- Lania
- Limassol Archaeological Museum
- Parklane
- St Nicholas of the Cats
- Where is Cyprus
- Alexander the Great
- Carob Mill
- Cyprus in March
- Districts
- Hala Sultan Tekke
- Lady's Mile
- Tsokkos Gardens
- Zivania
- Beer
- Cavo Maris
- Cyprus in April
- Germasogeia
- King Evelthon
- Larnaca Salt Lake
- Pissouri
- Towns and villages
- Amathus
- Anogyra
- Athena Beach
- Cyprus in May
- Mackenzie beach
- Population
- Archaeological sites
- Cyprus in June
- King Jason
- Limassol beaches
- Size
- Zenobia wreck
- Aliathon Resort
- Castles in Cyprus
- Cyprus in July
- Governor's Beach
- Languages
- Larnaca beaches
- Annabelle Hotel
- Cyprus in August
- Monasteries in Cyprus
- Name
- Azia Resort
- Cyprus in September
- Museums in Cyprus
- Capital Coast Resort
- Cyprus in October
- Pyla
- Cyprus in November
- Kiti
- Cyprus in December
- Lefkara
- Choirokoitia
- Tochni
- Flag
- How to get there
- Kalavasos
- Krasochoria
- Salamis
- Aphrodite
- Flights
- Karpas Peninsula
- Stavrovouni Monastery
- Kornos
- Larnaca Airport
- Limassol District
- Larnaca district
- Paphos Airport
- Pyrga
- Airport transfers
- Athienou
- Ferry
- Odou
- Cruises
- Kato Drys
- Getting around
- Vavla
- Buses
- Zygi
- Taxis
- Agios Irakleidios
- Car hire
- Paphos district
- Driving
- Paphos
- Kato Paphos
- Parking
- Cycling
- Paphos old town (Ktima)
- Paphos Archaeological Park
- Road trip
- Distances
- Tombs of the Kings
- Agia Kyriaki and St Paul's Pillar
- Paphos Byzantine Museum
- Paphos beaches
- Geroskipou
- Cyprus Wine Museum
- Peyia (Pegeia)
- Coral Bay
- Sea caves, Peyia
- Agios Georgios, Peyia
- Political system
- Akamas peninsula
- Religion
- Blue Lagoon, Akamas
- Public holidays
- Baths of Aphrodite
- Time
- Currency and payments
- Lara beach
- Avakas Gorge
- EU and Schengen
- Entry requirements
- Polis Chrysochous
- Latchi
- Neo Chorio
- Aphrodite's Rock
- Palaepaphos (Kouklia)
- Paphos Castle
- Paphos Archaeological Museum
- Agia Solomoni Catacomb
- Kathikas
- Drouseia
- Ineia
- Diarizos Valley
- Pano Panagia
- Where to eat
- Where to stay
- Chrysorrogiatissa Monastery
- Hotels in Ayia Napa
- Agios Neophytos Monastery
- Hotels in Protaras
- British bases
- Hotels in Limassol
- Tala
- Ercan airport
- Hotels in Larnaca
- Lempa
- Hotels in Paphos
- Hotels in the north
- Pano Arodes
- Hotels in Coral Bay
- Kritou Terra
- Kyrenia district
- Hotels in Polis and Latchi
- Kyrenia
- Lysos
- Hotels in Nicosia
- Lapithos
- Pomos
- Cedar Valley
- Hotels in the Troodos
- Ayia Napa
- Best time to visit
- Famagusta district
- Luxury hotels
- North Nicosia
- Agrotourism
- All-inclusive hotels
- Famagusta
- Thalassa Museum
- Adults-only hotels
- Apartments
- Ayia Napa Monastery
- Varosha
- Ayia Napa Sculpture Park
- Family hotels
- Morphou
- Boutique hotels
- Nissi Beach
- Beachfront hotels
- Events
- Makronissos
- Ayia Napa sea caves
- Cheap hotels
- Love Bridge
- Villas
- Ayia Napa beaches
- Campsites
- Cape Greco
- Safety
- Konnos Bay
- Scams and pitfalls
- Cyclops Cave
- Healthcare
- Mobile and roaming
- Free things to do
- What to buy
- With a dog
- Accessible Cyprus
- Plugs
- Tipping
- Protaras
- Tourist information
- Fig Tree Bay
- Packing list
- Prices and budget
- Profitis Ilias Church
- Cyprus on a budget
- Protaras beaches
- Shopping
- Paralimni
- With kids
- Deryneia
- For couples
- Kokkinochoria
- Weddings
- Nightlife
- Sotira
- Liopetri
- Package holidays
- Day trips
- Frenaros
- Nicosia district
- Avgorou
- Boat trips
- Nicosia
- Jeep safari
- Venetian walls
- Famagusta Gate
- Ledra Street
- Laiki Geitonia
- Cyprus Museum
- Byzantine Museum, Nicosia
- St John's Cathedral
- Archbishop's Palace
- 3 days
- Museums in Nicosia
- 5 days
- Chrysaliniotissa
- Leventis Museum
- One week
- 10 days
- Leventis Gallery
- Kornesios house
- Two weeks
- National Struggle Museum
- Ömeriye Mosque
- Faneromeni Church
- Shacolas observatory
- Tamassos
- Idalion
- Machairas Monastery
- Fikardou
- Lythrodontas
- Tilliria
- Kato Pyrgos
- Troodos Mountains
- Mount Olympus
- Troodos Square
- Skiing in Cyprus
- Troodos Geopark
- Painted churches of Troodos
- Kykkos Monastery
- Makarios's tomb
- Trooditissa Monastery
- Platres
- Prodromos
- Foini
- Treis Elies
- Marathasa valley
- Solea valley
- Agios Nikolaos tis Stegis
- Panagia Asinou
- Panagia Podithou
- Archangelos Michael, Pedoulas
- Panagia tou Moutoulla
- Agios Ioannis Lampadistis
- Kalopanayiotis
- Pedoulas
- Moutoullas
- Kakopetria
- Galata
- Evrychou
- Pitsilia
- Stavros tou Agiasmati
- Panagia tou Araka
- Timios Stavros, Pelendri
- Transfiguration church, Palaichori
- Palaichori
- Askas
- Lagoudera
- Polystypos
- Alona
- Agros
- Kyperounta
- Louvaras
- Hiking in Cyprus
- Artemis Trail
- Atalante Trail
- Persephone Trail
- Teisia tis Madaris
- Waterfalls in Cyprus
- Caledonia Waterfall
- Nature parks in Cyprus
- Viewpoints in Cyprus
- Cyprus beaches
- Diving in Cyprus
- Water sports in Cyprus
- Water parks in Cyprus
- Golf in Cyprus
Frequently asked questions
Why is Cyprus divided?
According to the UN, on 15 July 1974 the National Guard, led by Greek officers, staged a coup against the Makarios government, and on 20 July Turkey launched a military operation on the north coast, citing the 1960 Treaty of Guarantee. Since then the north hasn't been under the government's effective control.
When was Cyprus divided?
In 1974. The ceasefire of 16 August that year set the lines that now bound the UN buffer zone.
What is the Green Line in Cyprus?
It's the UN buffer zone, about 180 km from one end of the island to the other. In Nicosia it's less than 20 metres wide at its narrowest, and near Athienou it reaches about 7 km.
Who recognises Northern Cyprus?
Only Turkey. The Security Council declared the 1983 secession legally invalid in resolution 541, and gov.uk says the British government doesn't recognise it.
Can you cross between north and south Cyprus?
Yes, since April 2003, at the official crossing points. Gov.uk notes that only pedestrians can use Ledra Street and Ledra Palace, and that your time in the north counts towards your 90 days in the Republic.
By
Tourism graduate with a master’s in Tourism Management and Planning from the University of Málaga, who has travelled across Europe. He writes every guide from official sources and his own judgement.
Published on . Facts checked on .
Sources
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Photos: NicosiaKypros (CC BY-SA 3.0); Balou46 (CC BY-SA 4.0); Hansueli Krapf This file was uploaded with Commonist. (CC BY-SA 3.0), via Wikimedia Commons.