The church of St Lazarus, the heart of Larnaca

If you only have an hour in Larnaca, I’d spend it here. The church of St Lazarus is the city’s best-loved monument and, for the tourist board, one of the finest examples of Byzantine architecture in Cyprus. It’s free to go in, too.

The church over the saint’s tomb

The church stands in its own square in central Larnaca. The Byzantine emperor Leo VI, known as the Wise, had it built in the 9th century over the saint’s tomb, and it was restored in the 17th century. Its three domes and original bell tower were lost in the first years of Ottoman rule, but the gold-covered iconostasis survived, and the board considers it a superb piece of baroque carving. The main photo shows the stone front and the bell tower from the square.

According to tradition, Lazarus came to Cyprus after Jesus raised him from the dead. The apostles Barnabas and Paul ordained him Bishop of Kition, the city’s ancient name, and he lived here for 30 years. His tomb can be seen beneath the sanctuary.

The Byzantine museum

Next to the church, in some of the cells of the portico that still stand to the south, is the Byzantine museum. It gathers icons, gospels, crosses and other church treasures from the whole district of Larnaca. It costs €1 per person and opens 8:30 to 12:30 and 15:00 to 17:30, though it closes on Sundays and on Wednesday and Saturday afternoons. If you can’t make it, there’s a virtual tour of the museum.

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Opening hours and visiting

The church opens daily. From 1 March to 31 October, 8:00 to 18:30, and on Sundays 6:30 to 12:30 and 15:30 to 18:30. From 1 November to 28 February, 8:00 to 12:30 and 14:30 to 17:30, and on Sundays 6:30 to 12:30 and 15:30 to 17:30. There’s a ramp, chair lifts for the rooms and accessible toilets. It’s a working church, so I’d cover shoulders and knees.

Outside, the church is part of Larnaca’s storytelling statues, a project where you scan a QR code and the character rings your phone. Here it’s Leo the Wise, explaining why he built the church.

The procession

St Lazarus is so revered that eight days before Orthodox Easter his icon is carried in procession through the city streets. If it falls during your trip, it’s one of the liveliest moments of the year in Larnaca.

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Pairing it with other places

The Finikoudes promenade is about 400 m away as the crow flies and Larnaca Castle about 300, so all three fit into a morning. The Pierides Museum is about 600 m off, and the free Wednesday walking tour calls in at the church too. And if the saint interests you, the church of Panagia Angeloktisti at Kiti has a 10th-century icon of the Virgin, St Lazarus and the Evangelist Luke.

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If you are staying the night, see the best hotel deals in Larnaca for your dates: the well-placed rooms go fast.