Vranjina, the park's visitor centre and Lesendro fortress

Vranjina is the first bit of Lake Skadar you see if you drive or take the train from Podgorica down to the coast. The road and the railway cross the water right here, with an island and its village on one side and a stone fortress sitting almost at water level on the other. For me it’s the practical gateway to Lake Skadar, not the prettiest, but the most useful place to start.

An island with a village on it

Vranjina had 129 residents at the last census and belongs to Zeta municipality. Podgorica’s tourist board describes it as an island and a one-off village within the lake, and passes on its nickname, the Montenegrin Venice, earned by its setting and atmosphere. National Parks of Montenegro notes that the road and rail links across the lake were built in the 1960s, and with them the boat services that had joined the shores for decades gradually faded away.

The detail that interests me most is older. The park places the monastery of St Nicholas, from the 13th-century Nemanjić era, at Vranjina, and counts it among the oldest in the park alongside Prečista Krajinska.

The visitor centre and park headquarters

This is where the national park has its administration building and one of its two visitor centres. Podgorica’s tourist board explains that the centre has relief models of every national park in Montenegro, information on each one’s natural and cultural heritage and a wildlife display. It’s where I’d get my bearings for the whole country before moving on.

In practice Vranjina does three jobs. It’s one of the four landing stages for lake boats, you can hire boats and kayaks here according to the official tourism body, and the park office sells sport fishing permits at €5 a day. You can also pick up maps of the walking trails and cycle routes.

Once your dates are set, check which hotels are still free in Podgorica before prices climb.

Lesendro, the key to the lake

Next to Vranjina, right beside the road, is Lesendro. The National Tourism Organisation calls it the key to the lake and the chief guardian of the inland routes in the 19th century, and says it now resembles a ship at anchor. It suggests sailing out to explore it, though no opening hours or prices are published.

A little further north, where the Morača flows in, is the other big fortress on this shore, Žabljak Crnojevića. The two make an easy morning together.

Birds and when to come

The north of the lake is bird country, and the National Tourism Organisation gives the Vranjina visitor centre’s phone number for arranging birdwatching. The park asks for a day’s notice. For the rest of the country, see my guide to birds of Montenegro.

I’d come between spring and autumn, early in the day, and from here carry on along the shore to Virpazar or head back to Podgorica for lunch.

If you would rather have a local show you round, book a guided tour in Podgorica and choose by the reviews.

Once your dates are set, check which hotels are still free in Podgorica before prices climb.