Crvena stijena, the red-rock cove you reach by boat

South of the port of Bar, Volujica hill pushes out into the sea like a small peninsula, and on its open-sea side it hides a cove closed in by a wall of reddish rock. That’s Crvena stijena, Red Rock. The national tourist board puts it among the most beautiful beaches in the country, yet hardly anyone goes, because there’s no easy way to get there on land.

Behind Volujica hill

The Bar tourist board’s listing calls it a small, secluded beach with a charm of its own, tucked behind Volujica between Bigovica bay and Cape Skočivuk. OpenStreetMap places it in the Polje area of the town. Don’t mix it up with its namesake inland, Crvena stijena cave, a prehistoric rock shelter near Nikšić.

What it’s like

According to the national tourist board, you’ll rarely see anyone there apart from the odd diver arriving by boat or raft, or a group come for a picnic. You won’t need a parasol, as the rock face throws natural shade over part of the cove. The official listing mentions no sunbeds, bar or other facilities, so whatever you need for the day, bring it with you.

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Getting there

There is a way in overland, but the national tourist board doesn’t recommend it, and the Bar listing simply says the sea is the only way. A boat is the sensible option. The Bar tourist board explains that plenty of water taxis leave from the marina in the town centre, offering full-day trips, day and evening cruises and tours of beaches you can only reach by sea, and it names the beach behind Volujica and Queen’s Beach near Čanj. It doesn’t publish prices. If you’d rather plan something longer, there are more ideas in boat trips.

Volujica’s underwater side

The peninsula is one of the best diving spots around Bar, according to its tourist board. Bigovica bay, sheltered from the wind, served as a winter harbour from the 3rd century BC until the 16th century, and amphorae and the remains of an ancient ship lie on the seabed. On the south side of the peninsula is Mikovića Cave, 150 metres long, with its entrance 7 to 8 metres down, and below the bay lies the Italian cargo ship Quinto, sunk on 31 December 1940 at 32 metres. All of that is for qualified divers going out with a dive centre; for everyone else there’s an easy 5 km trail between Volujica and Bigovica.

If you are short on time, see the best tours in Crvena stijena and pick one that fits your day.

Who it’s for

For me, Crvena stijena makes sense as a stop on a boat trip rather than a beach for a whole day. If you’ve got young children or want facilities, you’re better off at Topolica in town or on the beaches at Sutomore. I compare them all in beaches in Bar.

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