Ulcinj beaches, from endless sand to coves under the pines

Ulcinj is the only place in Montenegro where you can choose, on the same day, between endless fine sand and rocky coves under the pines. The town itself splits its beaches into two groups, sandy and rocky, and that’s the best way to make sense of them.

The sandy ones, to the south

The big one is Velika plaža, 13 km of fine sand down to the river Bojana, with beach bars by section, kitesurfing schools and a seabed that shelves very gently. At its far end is Ada Bojana, the river island, with about three kilometres of sand, a naturist area and fish restaurants. The third sandy beach is in town. Mala plaža, below the old walls, is 360 metres long, with sand so fine it turns the water a deep blue-green and a seabed the Ulcinj tourist board calls a children’s paradise. It holds around 2,500 people. At one end is the little harbour, another 360 metres, at the foot of Ulcinj Old Town.

The rocky ones, in the pine wood

From Mala plaža the pine wood, Borova šuma, runs east for two kilometres. Along one kilometre of it, between Hotel Albatros and the former Hotel Galeb, there’s a string of small rocky hotel beaches known for their very clean water. Aquarius, 400 metres from Mala plaža, is where the younger crowd goes, with a bar and DJs. The national tourist board adds a naturist area in the pine wood, recommended for anyone with breathing problems. Close to the old town, Liman II is a pebbly cove with sunbeds and a pizzeria on the beach.

To sleep close to everything, search places to stay in Ulcinj on Expedia and filter by area before price.

Ženska plaža

In an inlet of the pine wood lies the women’s beach. A sulphurous spring rises at the water’s edge, credited by tradition with helping fertility and first analysed, the Ulcinj tourist board says, more than eighty years ago. From May to October only women are allowed in. It has a small cave and rocks encrusted with shells.

Valdanos and Kruče

About four nautical miles north-west of town, Valdanos bay forms a narrow horseshoe, sheltered from north and south winds, with a pebble beach. The Ulcinj tourist board explains that a lazaretto once stood at the head of the bay, and that in 1833 an Ulcinj brigantine arriving from Alexandria spent 40 days in quarantine there. Today it’s a natural monument, surrounded by Ulcinj’s great olive grove. Further north, near Kruče, is Kristalna plaža, which the national tourist board suggests reaching by kayak.

If you are short on time, see the best tours in Ulcinj and pick one that fits your day.

How to choose

The swimming season runs from May to October, with 218 sunny days a year, the tourist board says. Several Velika plaža concessions claim years of Blue Flag status on their listings without saying which years, so I’m not treating that as current. With children, go for sand; for clear-water swimming, the coves. If naturism is what you’re after, the whole country is covered in Montenegro’s naturist beaches.

To sleep close to everything, search places to stay in Ulcinj on Booking.com and filter by area before price.