Around Montenegro by car, stage by stage

Montenegro is made for a road trip. In a few hundred kilometres you go from a bay lined with stone villages to a vast lake, then canyons and mountains dotted with lakes. Here’s an eight-stage loop I’ve put together from the National Tourism Organisation’s scenic routes and distances worked out with OpenStreetMap, with where I’d stay each night. Remember it’s right-hand traffic throughout.

Stages 1 and 2, the bay and Lovćen

Start on the Bay of Kotor. Coming from Dubrovnik, cross into Herceg Novi and follow the shore through Perast to Kotor, about 31 km of waterside road. On day two, climb from Kotor to Cetinje over Lovćen, about 49 km. That’s part of Sea and Heights, the 283 km scenic route with which the National Tourism Organisation strings together the whole coast and its hinterland, from Herceg Novi down to Bar via Kamenari, Risan, Kotor, Tivat, Lovćen, Cetinje, the Budva Riviera, Virpazar and Ulcinj. I cover it in full in scenic drives in Montenegro.

Stages 3 and 4, the Riviera and the south

From Cetinje drop down to Budva, about 27 km, and on to Sveti Stefan, another 9. The next day is the southern coast, Petrovac, Bar and Ulcinj, about 66 km in all. It’s easy driving, but in July and August coastal traffic slows it right down, as gov.uk warns. I’d sleep in Ulcinj, where the coast runs out.

Once your dates are set, check which hotels are still free in Žabljak before prices climb.

Stages 5 and 6, Lake Skadar and Podgorica

Ulcinj to Virpazar, on the shore of Lake Skadar, is about 50 km, and from there it’s another 31 to Podgorica. It’s a good day for stopping by the lake for lunch. Stage six climbs from Podgorica to Kolašin, about 58 km, and puts you right in the mountains. Bear in mind that the Smokovac to Mateševo motorway is tolled, €3.50 for a car according to Monteput.

Stage 7, Durmitor

Kolašin to Žabljak is about 86 km. I’d book two nights in Žabljak to free up a day for the Durmitor Ring, the 76 km loop through the park’s high villages. For me it’s the most spectacular road in the country.

If you would rather have a local show you round, book a guided tour in Žabljak and choose by the reviews.

Stage 8, the Piva and back to the sea

The last stage is the longest, about 192 km, so get a good night’s sleep before it. From Žabljak drop to Plužine by Lake Piva, carry on to Nikšić and return to Kotor. Leave early and don’t attempt it in heavy rain. If you’ve a spare day, stop over in Nikšić.

Before you set off

If you’re in a big motorhome or not confident behind the wheel, the National Tourism Organisation advises against its mountain routes. Read driving in Montenegro before you go and, if you’re hiring, check the small print with car hire in Montenegro.

Once your dates are set, check which hotels are still free in Žabljak before prices climb.