Kitesurfing in Ulcinj, where the maestral blows most afternoons

Montenegro isn’t a surfing destination, but it has one very serious windy corner. It’s down at the southern tip in Ulcinj, where 13 km of sand meets an onshore wind most summer afternoons. I’d rank it among the most forgiving places in Europe to learn, and the only spot in the country where kitesurfing is properly organised.

Why Ulcinj

The national tourist board sums it up in a handful of figures. The maestral blows around 90 days a year, from May to September, almost daily, at 5 to 10 metres per second, which is exactly what kitesurfing needs, with gusts of 8 to 14 and waves of half a metre to a metre and a half. Velika plaža offers kilometres of sand with no trees or rocks and hundreds of metres of shallow, obstacle-free water, and the summers are sunny and clear. The same site ranks it among the safest kitesurfing beaches in the world, and the Ulcinj tourist board notes that the New York Times listed it in 2010 among 30 places every kiter should visit.

Schools and courses

There are several schools on Velika plaža that hire out equipment, and according to the national tourist board they all have a camping area, bar and parking. A beginner’s course takes eight to ten hours and is taught in stages, first on the sand and then in the water; children and older learners sign up too. Prices run from €150 to €400 depending on hours and season, a little cheaper in May than in the peak weeks of late July and August. The club with the longest history is D’olcinium at kilometre 10, the first in the country, founded in 2008. Its courses last 12 to 15 hours and only run on maestral days, in two or three-hour sessions, so leave yourself a few spare days.

To sleep close to everything, search places to stay in Ulcinj on Expedia and filter by area before price.

Ada Bojana, at the end of the beach

At the far end of Velika plaža, Ada Bojana is the other wind base. The Ulcinj tourist board calls it the surfing capital of the Adriatic and compares it with the Canaries, Portugal and Egypt. Here you can mix time on the water with the island’s beach and a fish supper by the river.

Beyond Ulcinj

The national tourist board mentions kiters who make their own way to Devil’s Lake in Durmitor, or to Žabljak’s frozen lakes in winter. Those are adventures for experienced riders with no schools involved, nothing like learning in Ulcinj.

If you are short on time, see the best tours in Ulcinj and pick one that fits your day.

Before you go

Montenegro recognises the GHIC, but you’ll need a certificate from its Health Insurance Fund to use it, according to the Foreign Office, and you’ll want travel insurance that covers kitesurfing. On the beach, respect the flags and watch out for speedboats and jet skis near swimmers. For other ideas around the country, see activities in Montenegro.

To sleep close to everything, search places to stay in Ulcinj on Booking.com and filter by area before price.