Kayaking in Montenegro, from the sheltered bay to white water

For a small country, Montenegro has a remarkable amount of water to paddle, and three very different kinds of it. There’s a sheltered sea hemmed in by mountains in the Bay of Kotor, a huge, shallow lake at Skadar, and mountain rivers that run hard in spring. The National Tourism Organisation lists kayaking in six coastal municipalities, from Herceg Novi down to Ulcinj. This is how I’d choose between them, depending on how much paddling you’ve done.

Lake Skadar, the place to learn

If you’ve never paddled, head for Lake Skadar. Its shoreline runs to 110.5 km, it sits 5 m above sea level and its average depth is just 5 m, with a maximum of 8.3. The water is flat, and the tourist board rates it ideal for beginners while still offering a challenge to the experienced. With luck you’ll see a Dalmatian pelican, one of the lake’s rare birds.

Skadar also has the cheapest and most transparent kayak hire in the country. The national park charges €3 an hour for a single, €5 for a double and €20 for a full day, and offers a guide at €40 for four hours. On top comes the park ticket, €5 per person per day. The stretch I’d most like to do is the Crnojević river, once one of the country’s important trading centres, which I write about under Rijeka Crnojevića.

The Bay of Kotor, the one with the views

The Bay of Kotor covers 87.3 km² with 105.7 km of shoreline, ringed by Orjen and Lovćen, with fortifications, churches and monasteries along the water. It’s very sheltered, which makes for unhurried paddling past stone villages and villas. The National Tourism Organisation says you might be lucky enough to see a sea turtle or a dolphin, and that from the bay you can carry on along the whole coast to Ulcinj.

On paper my favourite stretch is off Perast, with the village’s two islands straight ahead. The tourist board even notes that Smekja Palace, now a hotel, can be reached by kayak. I’d set off early, before the excursion boats get going.

Once your dates are set, check which hotels are still free in Virpazar before prices climb.

Mountain rivers, for the experienced only

The Tara (158 km), Lim (220 km), Piva (34 km) and Komarnica (25 km) are the rivers seasoned paddlers choose, with river beaches, backwaters and caves. There’s one firm condition. If you’re carrying a packraft or inflatable kayak, the National Tourism Organisation says paddling is only possible in April, May and June; the rest of the year the water is either too low or too fierce. In September the international Kayak Fest takes over the white water of the Tara, Piva and Komarnica. Rafting the Tara Canyon is a separate activity, done in inflatable rafts.

Near Podgorica and on Lake Piva

If you’re staying in Podgorica, the tourist board suggests the calmer Morača and Cijevna rivers. Lake Piva, in Plužine, suits something more adventurous.

Once your dates are set, check which hotels are still free in Virpazar before prices climb.

How I’d do it

A morning on Skadar in a national park kayak, followed by a fish lunch on the shore, and another morning in the Bay of Kotor if the sea’s flat. The rivers only in spring, and only if you’re experienced or with a guide.