The Kotor serpentine, 32 bends between the bay and Lovćen

Some roads are just a way of getting somewhere; others are the reason for the trip. The Kotor serpentine is firmly one of the latter. It leaves the bay, clings to the side of Lovćen and climbs bend by bend to the Njeguši plateau, with Kotor and the water dropping further below each time. The Cetinje tourist board counts 32 bends and says they separate the town from a completely different world, and it has a point. Down below is the Mediterranean; up top, stony mountain and shepherds’ houses.

A caravan road

Long before it carried cars, this climb was the caravan route linking the port of Kotor with Njeguši and, from there, Cetinje, the capital. Both the Cetinje tourist board and National Parks of Montenegro mention it when they describe Lovćen. Goods and travellers came this way, which is why Njeguši grew into a village of herders and traders that sold its cheese in Kotor, Dalmatia and as far as Venice.

Today it belongs to route number 3 of the National Tourism Organisation’s signposted network, Sea and Heights (More i visine), drawn from Herceg Novi to Bar by way of Kotor, Lovćen and Cetinje.

Driving it without drama

I’m not going to make it sound worse than it is. It’s a narrow mountain road with very tight hairpins, and the sensible approach is slowly, in daylight and with time to spare. Gov.uk describes Montenegro’s roads as fair and worse in rural areas in winter, and reminds British drivers that traffic keeps right and fines start from 10 km/h over the limit. The National Tourism Organisation advises large campers and inexperienced motorhome drivers against its panoramic routes, and I’d apply that here without hesitation.

My practical tip is to drive it uphill rather than down, and early. Going up, the bay is behind you, you can stop wherever there’s room to look back, and traffic is lighter before the cruise excursions arrive. If you break down, the AMSCG roadside assistance line is +382 19807, with English spoken.

Once your dates are set, check which hotels are still free in Kotor before prices climb.

At the top, Njeguši and Lovćen

The serpentine ends at Njeguši, the village of the Petrović family, Njegoš’s birthplace and home of pršut, and the natural place to stop for lunch. From there the road enters Lovćen National Park, with the climb to the Njegoš Mausoleum, and carries on to Cetinje. It’s the most beautiful way to get from the coast to the old royal capital.

If you’d rather not drive

The alternative is the Kotor cable car. According to the National Tourism Organisation, the bottom station is at Dub, 200 metres from the Budva-Tivat road, and the top one at the village of Kuk, at 1,348 metres and 18 km from Cetinje. The ride takes 11 minutes and climbs 1,316 metres. You miss the bends but keep the view, and its fares and timetable aren’t on the official page.

If you would rather have a local show you round, book a guided tour in Kotor serpentine and choose by the reviews.

Once your dates are set, check which hotels are still free in Kotor before prices climb.