Hiking in Malta: the walks I'd do, and when to do them

Malta isn’t a place most people pack walking boots for, and I understand why. It’s a small, crowded country whose highest point is 253 m. That’s exactly where people get it wrong, though, because the islands have miles of cliff coastline, valleys running down to the sea and an entire island with no cars. This is how I’d approach it, sticking to routes that an official source backs up.

Gozo, the island made for walking

If you’re walking for just one day, make it Gozo. The Ministry for Gozo describes the island as more rural and more tranquil than Malta, and publishes nine planned walking trails. They include Daħlet Qorrot, a loop from Nadur, the Ħondoq ir-Rummien Walk, starting in Mġarr and taking in Qala, Nadur and Għajnsielem along the way, the Xagħra Heritage Trail and the Ramla Walk, which runs from Marsalforn to Ramla Bay via Xagħra.

On paper my favourite is the Xlendi Walk, because it starts from a village served by the 330 bus from Victoria and puts the Ta’ Ċenċ cliffs, Gozo’s highest according to the Ministry, right in front of you. The background is in the Ta’ Ċenċ cliffs. Further west, the Ta’ Ġurdan route covers about 10 km around San Dimitri, the island’s westernmost chapel. Getting to and around the island is covered in Gozo.

Comino in three hours, and what to pack

Comino is the clearest case of all. The Ministry for Gozo says you can walk it in about three hours and that it has no roads, shops or services beyond seasonal kiosks. Boats run from Mġarr on Gozo in about 15 minutes and from Ċirkewwa in about 35. I’d go outside July and August, set off early, carry more water than seems sensible and keep clear of the Blue Lagoon at its busiest hours. The full picture is in Comino island.

Where to walk on the main island

On Malta itself, the walk I’d choose is along the Dingli Cliffs, which Malta Public Transport describes as famous for their views and hiking trails. They rise to 230 m above the sea, and right next door is Buskett, which BirdLife Malta calls the country’s only semi-natural woodland and which is open at all hours. Buses 52 and 56 from Valletta drop you at Dingli.

Up north, Malta Public Transport mentions the Għajn Tuffieħa coast for its cliffs to walk along and its watchtowers. And across the middle of the island run the Victoria Lines, the fortified line that follows the Great Fault. Here I’d rather be completely honest with you. Not one official source I’ve found publishes a waymarked path along them or its length, so I won’t give you distances.

When to walk, and when not to

Heat is the first thing to plan around. The Meteorological Office gives a July mean of 26.9 °C and average August highs of 32 °C, and in June 2021 it hit 41.5 °C. There’s no shade on the coast. That’s why I’d walk from October to May, and in summer only first thing in the morning.

The second is hunting. GOV.UK warns that bird shooting with firearms takes place in spring and autumn, from two hours before sunrise to two hours after sunset, in areas that can overlap with paths, and that there have been incidents with members of the public. In those seasons, I’d stay on the marked routes and leave open country for another time.

Cliffs, sea and common sense

The Ministry for Gozo advises against going near the shore at Dwejra when the sea is rough, and at Wied il-Għasri, a gorge with steps cut into the rock, it suggests watching storms from a safe distance. I’d apply the same rule to every cliff on the islands, Dingli included. I’d wear proper shoes, as on any rocky coast, and keep the emergency number, 112, to hand. Everything else on staying safe is in is Malta safe.