Għajn Tuffieħa, the quiet bay beside Golden Bay

Għajn Tuffieħa is the beach plenty of people stumble on when they arrive at Golden Bay and glance to the left. It’s right next door on the same west coast, and it has something its neighbour has lost, which is peace. Don’t expect an untouched cove, because it isn’t one, but if you want sand, clean water and an unhurried sunset, it’s my pick in the north of Malta.

A sandy beach on the west coast

Malta Public Transport calls it a stunning beach for its golden sand and clear water, less crowded than nearby Golden Bay and with a more tranquil feel. It adds that it’s good for walking and photography, with cliffs around it and fortifications and watchtowers nearby that hint at the island’s military past. Wikipedia adds that it’s popularly known as Riviera and that the sand has a reddish tinge.

In Malta that counts for more than you might think. Rocky shoreline is the norm here, so a sandy beach that isn’t packed is a rare find.

Where exactly it is

It lies on Malta’s western shore, right beside Golden Bay and close to Mġarr. I’ve found no official statement of which council it falls under, so I’ll simply tell you where it is. Near the village, on the road that leads down towards this bay, Roman baths of the 1st and 2nd centuries AD were found in 1929. Don’t bother hunting for them, since Heritage Malta backfilled them in 2019 and 2021 to protect them and they’re now permanently closed.

The walk down, and what isn’t there

Here’s the price of the calm. According to Wikipedia, you reach the sand down some 200 steps, and what goes down must come up, in full sun. VisitMalta’s listing confirms the principle, saying the beach can only be reached down a steep flight of steps or by a gravel track. With a pushchair or someone less mobile, I’d look at Golden Bay first, where the bus actually stops. Bring water and something to eat, as I haven’t found official information on which facilities operate down there each season.

A protected hillside

What makes Għajn Tuffieħa feel so different from Golden Bay is the land behind it. VisitMalta’s listing says the hillside above the beach is a designated natural park, and that the foundation managing it has planted tamarisk and samphire to stop further erosion. It adds that the whole area is a Special Area of Conservation because of its unique geology, and that the fine sand and rural surroundings are what make it the more alluring of the two neighbours. A headland on its west side separates it from Ġnejna.

The same stretch of coast belongs to the Majjistral Nature and History Park, and VisitMalta’s listing for the park carries a piece of history I didn’t expect. During the First World War, soldiers wounded at Gallipoli were brought to a large hospital camp set up in this area. The listing also mentions Second World War pillboxes and the Knights’ early 18th-century entrenchments on both sides of the valley above Golden Bay, so the cliff walk has more to it than views.

When to go

I like it late in the afternoon. On the west coast the sun sets over the sea, and Malta Public Transport picks out its sunsets in particular. In July and August I’d go early or late and avoid the middle of the day. And at any time of year, do what the flags tell you. VisitMalta’s listing warns that the beach is generally safe but prone to strong currents when the wind is from the north-west, and that a red flag means you should stay in the shallows.

Safety in the water

The MTA’s lifeguard flags are set out in the table on this page, and they’re worth a glance before you swim, since purple warns of jellyfish. Keep in mind as well that Malta doesn’t allow nudism or going topless on its beaches. The MTA features a photo captioned «Golden Sands Għajn Tuffieħa Bay» on its diving page, so if you fancy a dive here, book with a licensed centre.

Staying nearby

There’s not much accommodation here, but it’s upmarket. The MTA’s register places the five-star Radisson Blu Resort & Spa Golden Sands at Għajn Tuffieħa, the only hotel of that grade the MTA counts in the Mellieħa area. For more choice and lower prices, Mellieħa is one bus away on the 101.

Getting there

From Valletta, Malta Public Transport gives route 44 to Golden Bay, from where you walk over. From Mellieħa there’s the 101, and from Buġibba the 223 runs to Golden Bay. To get back to the airport, take the 223 to Buġibba and change to the TD1. For more coastal ideas, browse my round-up of the best beaches in Malta and, a little further south, Ġnejna Bay.