Five days in Kosovo, with time for the mountains

Ask me how many days I’d give Kosovo on a first trip and I’ll say five. Three covers the essentials at a gallop; five brings in two places I rate among the best in the territory and leaves enough slack that you’re not living by the clock. This is the route I’d take.

Day one, Pristina and Gračanica

The opening is the same as on shorter trips. A morning for central Pristina, with the old bazaar and the Newborn, and the afternoon for Gračanica, whose monastery, 10 km out, belongs to the UNESCO site. What I wouldn’t miss in the capital is in Pristina.

Novo Brdo, the addition that pays off

Day two starts with my favourite part of this route. Novo Brdo is 41 km and 51 minutes from Pristina by OpenStreetMap routing, and law 03/L-039 protects its medieval town. The DTK heritage register dates the fortress to the 13th century and the cathedral to the 14th. It’s easy to skip in the rush west, and I think that would be a mistake. The municipality is covered in Novo Brdo. In the afternoon, head for Prizren; I haven’t calculated the direct leg, so allow for going back towards the capital and taking the motorway.

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Two nights in Prizren

Day three is Prizren with no clock. Stone bridge, bazaar, mosques and churches, and the climb to the fortress late in the day. With two nights there’s no early start and no rushing, which in a town like this makes all the difference. I’d use the spare evening for a slow dinner in the old town and a last walk over the bridge. For more ideas, see my picks of things to see in Kosovo.

The west, on the way to Peja

Day four moves base. Leave Prizren for Gjakova, 36 km, for the Grand Bazaar; carry on 22 km to Visoki Dečani; then 14 km more to Peja for two nights. At the guarded monasteries, remember the British advice, no photos of soldiers, police or their posts.

If you are short on time, see the best tours in Peja and pick one that fits your day.

Rugova and the Patriarchate

I’d give the last day to Peja and its mountains. First thing, the Patriarchate of Peć, another UNESCO component. Then the Rugova Canyon road up to Bogë, 29 km by OpenStreetMap routing. Fancy a walk? Choose a signed route; gov.uk says leftover mines lie in the peaks Kosovo shares with Albania and Montenegro. Be back in Peja in daylight. The canyon in detail is in the Rugova Canyon.

Before you go

You’ll need a car for Novo Brdo, the west and Rugova, and travel insurance, as your UK GHIC isn’t valid in Kosovo. From Peja the airport is 71 km. With two days more, the longer version is one week in Kosovo.

To sleep close to everything, search places to stay in Peja on Booking.com and filter by area before price.